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From our guest book

Introduction

By taking a tour or Beach Safari of the northern beaches you will certainly be leaving the crowds behind. The north part of the island is less developed and gets only a tiny fraction of the visitors to Phuket. Many of those waiting to be loaded like cattle on to a boat and shipped off to Phi-Phi Island or one of the other tourist Islands seeking a remote island experience would be well advised to keep their feet dry, and drive for an hour to the north end of Phuket. Miles of unspoiled beaches, and good food await you. The rugged beauty of the northern beaches can only be enhanced by the feeling of having them all to yourself.

As you travel north you will encounter beaches dominated with casuarina pine trees rather than palm trees. These unusual trees are like a natural beach umbrella and offer cool shade from the blistering tropical sun, and a if you listen carefully they make slight singing sound as they sway to the call of the offshore breezes. Expect a quiet enchanting experience if you break away from the herd and visit the north end of the island.

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Kamala Beach

Fifteen minutes north of Patong as you reach the top of the Khao Phanthurat pass 303 m (990 ft) above sea level you will look out over the breathtaking panoramic view of Kamala Bay. The 2.5 km crescent shaped bay is dotted with casuarina trees on the first half of the coastline and coconut palms and sugar palms decorate the other. In spite of the large Safari Park entertainment center now being built on the north end of the valley Kamala has maintained its small fishing village atmosphere. If you take the first left turn at the bottom of the grade you will come to a small bridge continue to the left and you will find two isolated small beaches. The little lanes and meandering small roads that branch off lead to beautiful beach houses and cottages and several low rise condominiums. This end of the beach offers a peaceful tranquil environment with crystal clear water and coral reefs just a few meters offshore. Back to the bridge and a right turn brings you to a small fishing village strung out along the beach going north. Intermixed with small houses is the occasional store and restaurant. The atmosphere at Kamala is very relaxed and a very pleasant location for those looking for a quiet beach for sunning or taking a long lazy stroll along a mostly deserted beach. The little shops selling food are quite good and the prices are low enough that you can eat Thai style; by eating a little food from a large number of stalls. The Kamala Valley is a popular rental area for those who are staying a few months or more on the island.

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Laem Sing Beach

Is 20 minutes north of Patong, and is the first stop on our beach safari. The beach is not visible from the road but the small parking area is located about half way up the grade at the north end of Kamala Beach look for the small handmade signs. This is one of the undeveloped beaches frequently missed by visitors who are unaware of its location. Its a five minute walk down a fairly steep path to reach this remote little beach. The natural beauty of this beach is enhanced by the fact it sits well below the highway which lends a serene and quiet feeling that is not always present on other beaches in Phuket. The interesting rock formations along Laem Sing Beach offer some the best snorkeling opportunities on the island. Noted during recent visits was an increase in the number of beach venders and the occasional sighting of jetski activity, but it is still a pleasant little beach get-a-way well worth going out of the way for.

Some recent reports coming back suggest that many readers stopping here on the first leg of there beach safari are being taken in by the quiet charms of this hidden bay and are spending the whole day here.

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Surin Beach

A kilometer north of Laem Sing Beach lies the popular Surin Beach. As of now this beach has not been developed and it is a quiet and peaceful bay lined with a row of stately Casuarina trees. A tropical beach with pine trees rather than palm trees may seem out of place to many but the local Thais flock to this beach on weekends and holidays and bask in the shade provided by these unusual trees. The middle of the beach front is occupied by a dozen Thai beach-style mini restaurants serving up sizzling seafood to hungry visitors. Surin Beach is usually the second stop on the north beach safari and a good place for lunch because the next beach stop does not serve food.

For the careful swimmer Surin offers some good snorkeling opportunities at both ends of the beach but during the rainy season the water visibility is not very good. Big waves that are common on Surin beach during the monsoon season have caused a steep drop from the shore to the water line and can create dangerous undertow conditions. During high tide when the swells are big and running swiftly good surfing conditions exist here and is becoming an increasingly popular sport. There are no vendors renting surf boards at the beach yet but that may change in the future. Good surfing conditions can make for hazardous swimming and care must be taken with children and non-swimmers.

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Pansea Beach

Is a small secluded quiet beach that has a special feeling and many agree it is the finest beach on the island. Although it runs for only 250 meters it has fine white sand that glistens in the light and reflects off the clear blue sea. It has lively coral reefs and artistic rock formations embellish both ends that seem to frame the beach into one idyllic vision of a tropical beach paradise. Beauty has its price and in this case the natural beauty of this small protected natural bay attracted the famous Chedi Resort and the ultra-exclusive Amanpuri Hotel. This upscale resort plays host to the international celebrity set who don’t mind paying the ultra-high prices charged for privacy. Pansea Beach seems to be an exception to the law in Thailand that all beaches are public, because these hotels are allowed to run off all outsiders.

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Surin Village

Is the traditional heart of Phuket’s Muslim community. As you pass through this picturesque village strung out along the highway you will see the Ban Thao Mosque. This impressive and ornate structure is the largest mosque on the island. Visitors are allowed and discrete photos may be taken, but care should be exercised and avoid going on Fridays the Muslim holy day. The village offers several roadside markets that offer up delicious Muslim food and fruit picked fresh from the many nearby orchards. When ordering food or buying fruit you may have to resort to "point and smile technique", because English is for the most part only spoken by the younger generation. At the traffic light you can continue straight to the Heroines Monument and the main road to Phuket Town or turn left onto highway 4020 and continue your tour of the northern beaches.

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Bangtao Beach

Is a 8 km long sweeping crescent shaped bay with a gentle slope and absolutely pure white sand and is fringed with rows of casuarina trees. The constant but gentle breeze on this bay has made Bangtao Beach very popular with windsurfers and it plays host to several international competitions each year. The main entrance to Bangtao beach is 2 km north of Surin Village and marked with large signs from the sprawling Laguna Phuket complex that takes up most of the middle of the bay.

This remarkable complex of five luxury resort hotels integrated into one into what appears to be small city by the sea. The Banyan Tree Resort, The Allamanda, Dusit Laguna, and the Sheraton Grande Luguna Beach Club all employ the same low rise village style architecture that are uniquely designed to blend with the vastness of the old tin mine which is what this area used to be. The old tin mining lake is now a beautifully landscaped lagoon that serves as a watersports center. This is a classic example of the modern one-stop all-inclusive tourist location. Your entire holiday can be spent here without leaving the complex. Guests can charge their meals to their hotel rooms at any of the 28 restaurants and bars throughout the complex. The adjourning Banyon Tree Golf Club course, the beach, blooming flowers everywhere, rock gardens, manmade waterfalls everything is tastefully designed and organized to give their guests a serene and happy environment for their carefree holiday. As Bangtao Beach is 40 minutes from town and the restaurants and entertainment centers on the island most of the guests staying here have bought themselves a package deal from their travel agents.

Unless you are interested in windsurfing we usually route the beach safari to Nai Thon beach as the next stop.

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Le Phang Beach

Shares a common boundary with Bangtao Beach and is located on the northern end where the beach merges with a river estuary and lagoon. It is a very beautiful area and is home to many birds and animals drawn to the marshy conditions. The access to this area is limited to either walking down the beach from the Laguna Phuket area or by driving a good distance out of the Laguna Phuket complex back on the highway and following the directions as if going to Nai Thon beach before reaching the turnoff. The many trails that take off into the hills overlooking the beach here are popular with hikers and birdwatcher’s.

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Nai Thon Beach

A new blacktop road will take you winding along through rubber plantations and hills overlooking the Andaman Sea where coral reefs show clearly beneath the azure blue water and waves breaking over magnificent rock formations offers yet another breathtaking scene as you make your way along this 15 minute journey to one of the most isolated beaches on the island. As you descend the last hill you will find a peaceful, quiet cove, beautiful along its length, and well sheltered from wind and waves and offers wonderful swimming. Both ends of the beach are flanked with rocky headlands jutting out to the sea. Corals and rich marine life are drawn to the rocks and they offer excellent fishing. There is a small fishing village across the road from the beach with one small bungalow complex and a few small restaurants. There is seldom more than few people on the beach but if you want total solitude backtrack down the road south keeping a sharp lookout and you will find two small beaches.

To Get There: From Surin Village drive north past the turnoff to Bangtao Beach and continue north about three km and you will enter a small village. Turn left on the first blacktop road and you will start climbing up hills into rubber plantations.

Alternative Route: Travel northward on Thepkrasattri Road (Hwy. 402), pass the Heroine Monument, and Thalang town and turn left on into the side road 4031 the airport turnoff. The canopy of rubber plantation trees forming an arch of branches over the road is very picturesque. Turn left at the sign for Nai Thon Beach and follow it for 2 km to the beach.

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Nai Yang National Park

Comprises two beaches the Nai Yang and the Mai Khao beach and covers over 10 miles of beautiful white sandy beach on the north end of the island. Most planes fly over the park when landing at Phuket’s airport. At low tide from the air the sea can appear muddy compared with the translucent water off the beaches farther to the south and partly for that reason the beaches here have always been less popular with tourists and are not as developed. Another reason is the shore drops steeply into deeper levels, creating unpredictable and potentially hazardous water currents during the monsoon season. All of which is just fine with the Giant Ridley Sea Turtle who can weigh up to 850 kg(1874lb) and who tend to be shy creatures and prefer the beach to themselves. Between November and February each year these lumbering giants clamber onto the sandy shore at night to lay their eggs. Digging holes with their flippers, they lay up to 200 leathery-shelled eggs, an instinctual behavior said to be 90 million years old. Unfortunately the number of sea-turtles who make there yearly appearance continues to decline. This has led to efforts locally to increase the turtle population, with education programs for villagers and the release into the wild of turtles spawned in captivity. The turtles usually lay the eggs very late at night and you are allowed to witness this wonder of nature, but try not to disturb the turtles laboring at their task. Authorities maintain strict surveillance on the turtle eggs and move many of them to special hatchery fields.

Located on the north end of Nai Yang Beach is the Nai Yang Park Visitor’s Center, which offers displays of corals shells butterflies, turtles, and other interesting fauna found on the island. Camping is allowed on both beaches and the park maintains a few modest bungalows near the Visitor’s Center.

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Nai Yang Beach

Is noted for its impressive forest of tall casuarina trees, and as a picnic spot for Thais. Mobile food and fruit venders gather around the perimeter of the park and do a brisk business especially on weekends. As throughout southern Thailand if you find a beach that is popular with local Thais it will also have a wonderful selection of grilled seafood stalls and other Thai munchies and Nai Yang Beach is no exception. During low tide swimming can be good and a large coral reef a short distance offshore harbors a considerable variety us sea life and seashells are known to wash ashore here, especially after a monsoon storm. Nai Yang Beach has a very different feeling than beaches to the south. The Pearl Village Beach Hotel across from the beach usually has an elephant in residence that will give you ride on the beach and splash water on you for a few baht. Nai Yang is usually the last beach stop on the north beach safari.

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Mai Khao Beach

At 9km (5 ½ miles) is the longest beach on Phuket. A pristine white sand beach that is devoid of development and protected as part of the Nai Yang National Park. Camping is allowed but there are few facilities If you are in search of a remote and isolated beach to have all to yourself this is it.

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Sirinat National Park

Was declared a national park in 1981. This park protects one the last remaining mangrove areas on the island. It is a fairly small park with only a few facilities. What make the journey here worthwhile is the elevated wooden walkwayway built by park officials that allows you to easily explore the unique and diverse eco-system of a coastal mangrove forest. The pathway is well marked and posted signs offer interesting information about manyof the different species of animal and fish that thrive in marshy shade provided by over twenty different types of mangrove tress that grow in the park. This is a must do visit for nature lovers and birdwatchers.

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Sai Kaew Beach

Runs from Mai Kao to the Sarasin Bridge. The beach is white and rimmed with firs the whole length. Phuket’s most northern beach. At the far northern end near the Sarasin bridge are a few inexpensive restaurants that serve excellent food.

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Restaurants

Paul’s Place

Located overlooking scenic Kamala Bay ‘Paul’s Place is one of the finest locations on the island to enjoy traditional Thai Food. Quiet and relaxing, with excellent food and service.

Fern’s Restaurant

Italian food at its best right in the heart of the Laguna complex. Open daily from breakfast.

Saffron

Middle Eastern and Asian dishes served in traditional form. Reasonable prices and quiet relaxed atmosphere. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Buffet on Friday nights.

Toto’ Bar Ristorante Italiano

Phuket’s branch of the well known "Toto" in Bangkok. Classic Italian Cuisine prepared with only the freshest ingredients. Elegant dining in an air-conditioned converted house on peaceful Surin Beach.

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Banyan Tree Golf Course

Located in the Laguna resort complex, this championship course is convenient for golfers staying in the Bangtao area. It is both a beautiful and challenging course with plenty of water hazards to lure your errant shots. The course itself has a natural beauty with the lush green mountains providing a background and picturesque palm trees lining the fairways.

The spacious clubhouse produces delicious Thai and international food at reasonable prices, but the price on cocktails can take your breath away. Remember it is customary to tip your caddie 100 baht for nine holes and 200 baht for 18 holes.

Follow directions to the Phuket Laguna Complex and watch for golf course signs.

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